Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
