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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.